By the Mekazon Kitchen

If you grew up in Kenya, the smell of omena frying with onions and tomatoes is pure home. If you didn't, you may have looked at the bag of tiny silver fish and wondered where to start. Learning how to cook omena (also called dagaa) takes ten minutes of technique and one honest rule: rinse it properly. Our customers in Dubai cook it every week; this is the method we give them, plus a crispy version for snacking.

What is omena, and why does Kenya love it?

Omena is the Dholuo name for a small sun-dried freshwater fish from Lake Victoria. In Kiswahili it is dagaa, and across the border in Uganda the same fish is mukene. According to Wikipedia's entry on the silver cyprinid, the fish is caught on moonless nights using lights, then spread out on the shore to dry in the sun before being sacked and traded from markets like Kisumu across East Africa.

Lake Victoria, Africa's largest lake, is shared by Kenya, Uganda and Tanzania. Whatever you call it, dried omena is shelf-stable and light, which is why it travels so well to the Gulf.

We stock Kenyan omena (sun-dried fish) in 200g packs, sourced from Kenya and sealed for the UAE climate. One pack is enough for two generous family stews.

Before you cook: how to clean omena

First-timers skip this step, and it is the difference between a great stew and a gritty one: sun-dried fish always carries a little sand.

The quick soak

Tip the omena into a bowl and cover it with hot (not boiling) water. Leave it for 5 to 10 minutes. The fish softens and the sand sinks. Lift the omena out with your hands rather than pouring, so the grit stays at the bottom. Rinse once more under the tap and drain well.

Optional: take the heads off

Many Kenyan mums pinch the heads off larger omena before cooking. It is a preference, but it makes the stew milder, so do it for first-timers.

How to cook omena stew (the classic way)

This is the everyday version served with ugali across Kenya. It serves 3 to 4.

You need: 1 pack (200g) omena, cleaned as above · 3 tablespoons cooking oil · 1 large onion, finely chopped · 3 ripe tomatoes, grated or finely chopped · 2 cloves garlic, minced · 1 teaspoon Royco Mchuzi Mix · ½ teaspoon Tropical Heat fish masala (optional but very good) · salt · a small handful of chopped coriander (dhania) · ½ cup water or milk.

1. Fry the omena first. Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a wide pan and fry the drained omena on medium heat for 3 to 4 minutes until it smells toasted and looks slightly golden. Remove to a plate. This stops the stew tasting flat.
2. Build the base. Add the rest of the oil, then the onion. Cook until soft and just browning at the edges. Add the garlic for 30 seconds.
3. Tomatoes and seasoning. Add the tomatoes, Royco, fish masala and a pinch of salt. Cook down for 5 to 6 minutes until the oil separates and you have a thick, dark-red sauce. Do not rush this.
4. Bring the fish back. Return the omena, stir to coat, then add the water or milk. Milk gives a creamier, milder stew. Cover and simmer on low for 8 to 10 minutes.
5. Finish. Taste for salt, stir in the coriander, and serve hot.

Serve with a firm block of ugali made from white maize flour or SOKO Grade 1 maize meal, and a pan of sukuma wiki on the side. Our guide on which maize flour makes the best ugali covers the flour choice.

Crispy omena: the snack version

Omena is also eaten dry-fried and crunchy. Clean and drain the fish, pat it dry on kitchen paper, then shallow-fry in hot oil for 4 to 5 minutes until crisp. Drain, then toss with a squeeze of lemon, a pinch of salt and a little chilli. Eat as it is, or pile it over chapati. A crumbled Royco cube in the frying oil is a neat shortcut for extra savouriness.

Three things Dubai kitchens ask us about omena

"The smell fills the flat"

Dried fish is fragrant and UAE flats are small. Turn the extractor on before the pan is hot, open the balcony door, and drop a slice of lemon into the onions. The hot-water soak also takes the edge off.

"It went bitter"

Bitterness means the omena was fried too long or too hot in the first step. Medium heat, 3 to 4 minutes, out as soon as it turns golden.

"Can I use mukene instead?"

Yes. Ugandan mukene silver fish is the same species, dried a little smaller. Use the identical method.

Storing omena in the UAE

Keep the unopened pack in a cool cupboard. Once opened, move the fish to an airtight jar and keep it in the fridge; in Gulf humidity that is the safe choice. Cooked omena stew keeps two days chilled and reheats well with a splash of water.

FAQ

Do I have to soak omena before cooking?

Yes. A 5 to 10 minute soak in hot water removes sand and softens the fish. Lift it out rather than pouring.

How long does omena take to cook?

About 25 minutes in total: 10 minutes soaking, 4 minutes frying, 10 minutes simmering in the tomato base.

What do you eat omena with?

Ugali is the classic partner, with sukuma wiki or cabbage on the side. Crispy omena also goes well with chapati or rice.

Ready to cook? Shop Kenyan omena 200g, then fill the basket from our Kenyan spices and seasonings and the full Kenya collection. Delivered across the UAE, cash on delivery available.